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#1 Wiccan1

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Posted 28 January 2004 - 01:40 AM

I see a lot of questions/comments/problems regarding Optispark. I am curious how this relates/replaces to the traditional ignition like the HEI in my '81 and if someone has a picture of it?
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#2 charles

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Posted 28 January 2004 - 02:19 AM

The Optispark looks like an aluminum and plastic pancake, and is far less reliable than your HEI. It is also mounted under the waterpump so that both can fail together. Wonderful engineering design. Just wonderful. wink.gif
Charles (94 Formula T-Top, green/gray leather, 6spd, some stock parts remaining, some even work).

My disclaimer: Any information that is furnished by me, is sometimes the result of endless hours of frustrating research and it might come from recognized authorities on the subject that I don't know. Sometimes it is also my personal opinion. Remember, your results may vary...mine certainly do.

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#3 94Formula

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Posted 28 January 2004 - 07:28 AM

Do a forum search for "optispark picture". A while back we had a nice long thread that tore the optispark apart. There were lots of photos showing the outside and inside, in fact on one of them, you can see the mitsubishi logo on the photo-sensor. That is my favorite photo. wink.gif


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#4 Wiccan1

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Posted 28 January 2004 - 06:33 PM

Is it possible to convert an Optispark on the LTI to an HEI or something more reliable?
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#5 Wiccan1

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Posted 28 January 2004 - 06:40 PM

QUOTE(94Formula @ Jan 27 2004, 11:23 PM)
Do a forum search for "optispark picture". A while back we had a nice long thread that tore the optispark apart. There were lots of photos showing the outside and inside, in fact on one of them, you can see the mitsubishi logo on the photo-sensor. That is my favorite photo. wink.gif


Keep the HEI. cool.gif

Found the post with an Optispark article in it. I guess the real question should be, what year did they start the optispark? I am considering an LT1 for my '81, I dont want to shell out the $$$ for an LS1 although it would probably be money well spent.
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#6 SassySue09

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Posted 28 January 2004 - 06:42 PM

Jeremy, if it's an LT1 engine it'll have the optispark. They all have them. sad.gif

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#7 Doug

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    Too much to list. Pretty much everything you can throw at one of these to go fast (except N20)

Posted 28 January 2004 - 07:00 PM

ok, since I am in a defensive mood today, I will even go to the length of defending the optispark.

IF (and that is a big if) you can keep water (that includes condensation) out of the optispark it will last almost indefinatly.

Water is the killer of the opti, or oil, or anything that can get inside it. I am very surprised that there isn't an aftermarket cover or sealing fixture to prtect them. (hey I thought of it if anyone tried to patent it)

The system works very well actually as long as it isn't disturbed by outside materials.
In 1995 they went to the vented style that actually sucked any condensationout of it, and the opti got alot better longevity wise but they still had problems. I think it was a great idea just too early and not enough though went into it. they where trying to make it last the life of the car!

Doug
My Disclaimer: These cars rock, and are some of the best bang for the buck cars you could buy! I have had other muscle cars but during the build of this car I was amazed at the amount of power that is inside the LT1 just waiting to be unlocked. The right combination of parts can get these cars into a true low 12 car on street tires and that is fast in any circle!
The info on this site comes from a cross section of people, some data is gathered from pre and post mod dyno pulls, track tests, and some has been gathered through research that has taken many hours. No matter where this info comes from everyone on this site does thier best to provide the most accurate, and up to date info that you can find anywhere on the internet, and that is what makes this a very special site.
Doug's 1993 Pontiac Formula (white, A4)
intake: suncoast predator Ram air, 52mm holley throttle body, ported/polished LT4 intake, ported/polished LT4 heads(1.6 rollers rockers, manley valves, LT4 springs.
engine: Crate LT1(300HP stock) (4 bolt main)(forged crank/forged pistons/forged H beam manley rods) Detailed!(braided hoses, polished TB, chrome GM valve covers, red fuel rail covers), LT4 hot cam (KIT, RR's,chain,springs), Moroso windage tray
Transmission: professionally built 4L60E, kevlar band, billet servo, blue plate frictions, 3000 stall PI converter,transgo/B&M hybrid shift kit. B&M trans cooler
3" Aluminum driveshaft
Gears: new posi unit (GM) 3.73 motive gears (redline)
Exhaust:1 3/4" Ceramic BBK headers,Random Tech high flow cat,3" Flowmaster American Thunder iwh 4" rolled and 15 degree cut tips.
Ignition: DELTEQ ignition,MSD Optispark, MSD Superconductor wires, NGK plugs.
Computer: custom madtuner chip for my cars mods
Fuel: Adjustable pres regulator, gauge pod,26lb/hr SVO injectors
Suspension:BMR STB, Eibach 1 1/4 lowering springs, Bilstein shocks, BMR tubular control arms (urethane bushings), BMR adj. Panhard rod ,BMR Subframes, BMR Extreme torque arm, 1LE sway bars, energy suspension trans,torque arm bushings. energy suspensions urethane front end kit. urethane endlinks (custom cut) shaved Bump stops.
Brakes: Irotors crossdriled and slotted, Hawk pads. Red ceramic coated calipers, braided lines, Earls speed bleeders
wheels/Tires: 16" polished alum Firehawk 5 spoke /255/50/ZR16 BFG's

#8 charles

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Posted 28 January 2004 - 07:40 PM

Yeah, Doug's right, if it wasn't for the water that gets in the Optisparks, they would do ok. Heck in my case, a brand new one was totaled when the A/C compressor blew up and showered it with synthetic oil. Stuff soaked right into it and it was toast.

Doug, you thought of it, try to get a patent pending. A cover of some sort is what is needed. --made of thin rubber, and it straps on and around. But we gotta ask, does Jon own all of our ideas, since we work for him again. Maybe you should quit, but you quit buddy and I'm outta here, too. I got a great patent attorney if you need help--for a small fee of course.

Jon's made some pretty lousy coffee today as well, so I don't think he needs much consideration on this subject. laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif
Charles (94 Formula T-Top, green/gray leather, 6spd, some stock parts remaining, some even work).

My disclaimer: Any information that is furnished by me, is sometimes the result of endless hours of frustrating research and it might come from recognized authorities on the subject that I don't know. Sometimes it is also my personal opinion. Remember, your results may vary...mine certainly do.

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#9 Doug

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    Too much to list. Pretty much everything you can throw at one of these to go fast (except N20)

Posted 28 January 2004 - 08:03 PM

Hey we can call it the "opti-condom" lol.... Too funny. We can even make a ribbed one for women that drive Firebirds.

Sorry if that is in bad taste (just a joke)

Doug
My Disclaimer: These cars rock, and are some of the best bang for the buck cars you could buy! I have had other muscle cars but during the build of this car I was amazed at the amount of power that is inside the LT1 just waiting to be unlocked. The right combination of parts can get these cars into a true low 12 car on street tires and that is fast in any circle!
The info on this site comes from a cross section of people, some data is gathered from pre and post mod dyno pulls, track tests, and some has been gathered through research that has taken many hours. No matter where this info comes from everyone on this site does thier best to provide the most accurate, and up to date info that you can find anywhere on the internet, and that is what makes this a very special site.
Doug's 1993 Pontiac Formula (white, A4)
intake: suncoast predator Ram air, 52mm holley throttle body, ported/polished LT4 intake, ported/polished LT4 heads(1.6 rollers rockers, manley valves, LT4 springs.
engine: Crate LT1(300HP stock) (4 bolt main)(forged crank/forged pistons/forged H beam manley rods) Detailed!(braided hoses, polished TB, chrome GM valve covers, red fuel rail covers), LT4 hot cam (KIT, RR's,chain,springs), Moroso windage tray
Transmission: professionally built 4L60E, kevlar band, billet servo, blue plate frictions, 3000 stall PI converter,transgo/B&M hybrid shift kit. B&M trans cooler
3" Aluminum driveshaft
Gears: new posi unit (GM) 3.73 motive gears (redline)
Exhaust:1 3/4" Ceramic BBK headers,Random Tech high flow cat,3" Flowmaster American Thunder iwh 4" rolled and 15 degree cut tips.
Ignition: DELTEQ ignition,MSD Optispark, MSD Superconductor wires, NGK plugs.
Computer: custom madtuner chip for my cars mods
Fuel: Adjustable pres regulator, gauge pod,26lb/hr SVO injectors
Suspension:BMR STB, Eibach 1 1/4 lowering springs, Bilstein shocks, BMR tubular control arms (urethane bushings), BMR adj. Panhard rod ,BMR Subframes, BMR Extreme torque arm, 1LE sway bars, energy suspension trans,torque arm bushings. energy suspensions urethane front end kit. urethane endlinks (custom cut) shaved Bump stops.
Brakes: Irotors crossdriled and slotted, Hawk pads. Red ceramic coated calipers, braided lines, Earls speed bleeders
wheels/Tires: 16" polished alum Firehawk 5 spoke /255/50/ZR16 BFG's

#10 LT1Formula350

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Posted 28 January 2004 - 09:52 PM

hahaha ribbed opti-comdom.....
PAUL


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#11 fireduck350

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Posted 29 January 2004 - 09:17 PM

Can someone post a link to the pictures? Just curious myself. I have never really paid any attention to it. I couldn't find the link in the search for the pictures, it just kept bringing up this post. I am guessing that shielding for a distributor would not work at all. But, if you are interested, the older Corvettes had chrome sheilding the covered the distributor and a portion of the wires, to help keep water out I guess. I was nice looking. I have even thought about getting one and putting it on my Formula.
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#12 Wiccan1

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Posted 30 January 2004 - 03:22 AM

You have to change the search settings to any instead of last 30 days and search optispark.

I tried it and now cant find the post. sad.gif
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#13 Dirck

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Posted 07 February 2004 - 08:37 AM

Really was looking forward to the Optispark images. Are they gone? Thanks.

#14 Wiccan1

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Posted 07 February 2004 - 10:10 AM

I couldnt find the post again.......

I solved my problem anyway, Im going with a 455.....
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#15 Wiccan1

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Posted 07 February 2004 - 10:45 AM

Ah-haa

Found the site.....This guy breaks it down pretty well....

OptiSpark Page
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#16 Dirck

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Posted 15 February 2004 - 08:51 AM

Hi all.
Thanks for the link Jeremy!
The Opti-system functions perfectly until atmospheric variations generate internal condensation.
I'll employ a method of alteration to the 94->96 cap/rotor kit in conjunction with installation of the earlier 'vette vented distributor vacuum harness. I am wondering if I should install 1 or 2 thin drain tubes in the cap bottom to displace excessive condensation. Small open drains may also prevent negative internal cover pressure from displacing the RTV seal or aiding seal compromise. That leads to concern of rain and splash water being drawn in by the vacuum.

* Is the MFI manifold vacuum strong enough to justify this concern?

* Did the GM vented Opti-II come with open holes in the bottom for this purpose?

* Lower distributor cap drain tube(s) or not?

In appreciation of any feedback...

May the sparks fly!
Dirck

Edited by Dirck, 15 February 2004 - 09:01 AM.


#17 charles

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Posted 15 February 2004 - 04:10 PM

Hi Dirk,

I've asked the same question about the 'vented' Optispark on the 95s thru 97s. So far...no answer. Have also done a lot of research on the Internet wih no answers (which is why my car still does not have a vacuum vented distributor). If the cap is vented with holes on the bottom ala 93s and 94s, then there is a problem in that "MAF" equipped cars do not tolerate any vacuum leaks, and this certainly qualifies. If the cap is vented as you suggest, then are there some PCM tuning curves to account for this "leak" that we don't know about? From personnal experience, our cars do not tolerate any kind of a vacuum leak. The PCM just can't take it into account and make adjustments. I don't know why that is. Even something as minor as a defective EGR control solenoid can wreck havoc on the engine tuning--not becuz of excessive EGR but becuz of the vacuum leak that happens when the EGR is shut off by the PCM. Weird!

Also, the vent holes (don't know if there are vent holes on the 95-97s) were there for the reasons that you bring up and one other reason. Inside a sealed cap, totally airtight, the trapped air becomes ionized and then sparks fly everywhere instead of jumping from the rotor to contact point on the cap. Also, just like a sealed bearing, seems the seals are far more effective at sealing water in than out. Once water gets in, the Optispark is history. Then again, if water gets in, then that means there is a vacuum leak and the problem starts all over again with vacuum leaks that the PCM can't adjust for. Seems that in this case, the 93s with their Speed Density System (no MAF) are far superior to the cars with a MAF. Doug simply added in an SLP vacuum vent system on his 93 and has had zero problems with it. Lucky guy. Bummer, huh?
Charles (94 Formula T-Top, green/gray leather, 6spd, some stock parts remaining, some even work).

My disclaimer: Any information that is furnished by me, is sometimes the result of endless hours of frustrating research and it might come from recognized authorities on the subject that I don't know. Sometimes it is also my personal opinion. Remember, your results may vary...mine certainly do.

Driving a Mustang is like wearing the wrong size shoe, so why bother.

#18 Dirck

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Posted 15 February 2004 - 07:31 PM

Hello!

Thanks Charles.

It appears that Mr. Frohnert's solution {below} prevents drain tube(s) water uptake by running a line to the cabin with an inverted fuel filter. I was not aware of the MAP vacuum integrity complications. Do you believe that this vacuumed and vented (via filter) modification will result in fueling malfunctions etc? This may be the only feasible alternative for me at present dut to time constraints.


Regarding the Opti-I to II upgrade {camshaft conformity}:
I wouldn't be suprised if there have been attempts to R&R the camshaft pin and drill the center with a greased and magnetized bit instead of swapping cams for the upgrade. I'm unclear as to access deterence levels after the gear cover is displaced. There are always other issues such as gear mating etc. Any attempts {success, failure or impossible}?

I am fairly certain that you are familiar with Rick's approach. I was hoping for further feedback.

92-94 Optispark Repair
By Rick Frohnert

You can make the LT1 '92-'94 Optispark setup more reliable than a '95-'96, even with the early distributor configuration. Buy a $12 '96 GM Vette distributor vacuum harness assy. Buy a $4 clear plastic fuel filter. Buy a $3 tube of premium black Permatex RTV, because it withstands the highest temps. Reserve a long day to fiddle around. Here's how it all goes together:

1a) Disassemble and clean the inner and outer cap & rotor assembly with a mild soap like Murphy's, Ivory or equivalent and thoroughly clean off all carbon, soap and dirt residue. Early style top caps must be drilled in a specific spot and at a specific angle to provide venting and a piece of vinyl hose will need glued in the hole. You will have to examine a later style outer cap to see where to drill the hole. It is at 6 o'clock pointing toward the driver's side tire. Use masking tape on drill bit to prevent drilling the small molded spark shield inside. Sorry, I can't describe better. I elected to buy a new early distributor and also a late distributor cap kit. I removed the early upper cap and replaced it with the late upper cap. This was expensive but ideal. You need an odd E5 female Torx socket to remove & install cap.

OR

1b) Buy a new later '95-'96 style cap and rotor assembly. The outer cap that the spark plug wires plug into was revised to provide a vacuum system connector. It WILL fit the earlier distributors perfectly. Problem is, the lower cap assy is different on the early and late distributors and can't be purchased separately. I heard the Pep Boys early cap kit provides the proper early lower cap with a later style upper cap that has a plug in the vacuum hole. That would be ideal.

2) Use a liberal bead of Permatex to seal the lower cap section to the aluminum base, top cap to the lower cap and thoroughly cover the stupid "shrinking" white foam seal around the wiring harness area of the distributor. You may prefer to use a hobby paintbrush to cover seams better.

3) The fuel filter hangs under the dashboard with the inlet end open to the air. The outlet end goes to a piece of vacuum line and feeds thru the firewall or grommet near the upper door hinge into the engine compartment. This hose must feed to one of the three vent holes in the distributor base assy closest to the driver's side by gluing in a piece of thinwall 1/8" vinyl emissions control hose in with the silicone sealer. Form the hose so it routes away from the crankshaft dampener toward the driver's front tire and looping upward with a fairly tight but not kinked radius of about 3". Plug the remaining two holes with the sealer.

This vinyl hose in the distributor base must be routed up the front of the motor between the serpentine belt tensioner and alternator bracket. You will likely need to see a '95 or '96 Vette to see how they squeezed it in there without pinching or wearing a hole in it. It is a real snaked route. You can split rubber vacuum hose and cover the vinyl hose with it to prevent collapsing when you restrain it using plastic tie wraps . It follows the edge of the aluminum accessory bracket all the way up to the intake. This 1/8" vinyl hose in the base gets routed across the top of the motor toward the battery. I drilled aluminum bracket to access door hinge area from battery. You can convert to rubber vacuum hose if you wish and route it through the grommet in the upper driver's door hinge into the dashboard area. You're done with hose #1.

3) Now hose #2. Take the vent hoses from the '96 GM Corvette OEM Vacuum Harness kit and use the one with the two in-line gizmos in it. One in-line device is a one way valve and the other is a flow restrictor. The accompanying bare hose in the GM kit is not used. Remove the plastic cover off the driver's side of the engine intake manifold. You will see a nice vacuum source going to the EGR valve. Install a tee and plumb the modified early cap or stock later distributor cap hole to the intake vacuum source using the '96 hose with the 2 in-line gizmos. Make sure it's installed with the gizmo's near the intake. This hose is routed from the intake down the accessory bracket following the same path. Hose length is critical.

Conclusion: Low humidity air is sucked from under the dash and fed into the distributor aluminum base assy, out of the cap thru the one way valve and restrictor into the intake. This should be bulletproof, far better than the '95-'96 setup that has similarly poor sealing and draws moist air from the air intake assy. You should be able to submerge your ignition now. GOOD LUCK.

'95-'96 cars can benefit from Permatex bead sealing of all distributor cap seals too. Also, moving the vacuum fresh air source from the gray "L" fitting in the Air Intake hose to the cars interior dash area with the fuel filter method as described above will prevent intake hose humidity or rain infiltration from condensing in the distributor cap. This could be a real concern on RAM air modified cars that draw air from a license plate snorkel/scoop or from the positive pressure radiator shroud area.

Optispark repair kit C400 from pep boys is a Borg Warner product that is listed for 92-96's. This kit probably will work fine on 95's or 96's but it needs a little help to fit the early units.

It costs $153 dollars so if you aren't sure you can do this I suggest not trying because you may ruin one of the pieces. The kit gives you a vented cap and rotor, which are ok as is. The inside cover is what is different. The ECM plug is on the new part , but the old unit has the plug already molded and attached to the base. It goes in a notch in the old cover.

This is a source of leaks so the change in design is for the better. It is tempting to use the old inside cover but it may have carbon tracks due to its close proximity to the rotor and may not work when you are done. Carefully cut the plug snout off of the new cover flush with the outside diameter, using a Dremel tool or a small hobby saw. Saw a notch in the new cover working a little at a time until you are satisfied with the fit. Leave a little room for some epoxy. I used Aeropoxy, but JB weld would work fine.

Next you will notice the flange in the center will not clear the photo receptor on the base. Remove a small section of the flange until it just clears. Now clean everything as good as possible and put the unit together. Put a very small amount of Vaseline on JUST the portion of the cap seal directly above the ECM plug so the epoxy won't stick to it. Leave the screws a little loose until the epoxy sets, then tighten them to compress the seal.

What you now have is a hybrid unit that should be better than the original and you can hook up a vacuum vent if you really want to. The new cap has a vacuum fitting but no provisions for flow through so I elected to leave it open as it is on the bottom so nothing can get in. Hooking a direct vacuum didn't seem like a good idea to me but that is up to you.


I am uncertain, but believe that Rick is indicating the internal round cap under the rotor as the lower and the exterior cap as the upper.

Wa'da'ya'tink?

Be well,
Dirck

Edited by Dirck, 15 February 2004 - 07:49 PM.


#19 charles

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Posted 15 February 2004 - 10:22 PM

Very difficult to read. Anyone know how to brighten up the text? I dunno, about how it would work. If he says it works, then there is only one way to verify it and that is do it.

I'd like to print it out and save for the future.
Charles (94 Formula T-Top, green/gray leather, 6spd, some stock parts remaining, some even work).

My disclaimer: Any information that is furnished by me, is sometimes the result of endless hours of frustrating research and it might come from recognized authorities on the subject that I don't know. Sometimes it is also my personal opinion. Remember, your results may vary...mine certainly do.

Driving a Mustang is like wearing the wrong size shoe, so why bother.

#20 Wiccan1

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Posted 15 February 2004 - 11:46 PM

92-94 Optispark Repair
By Rick Frohnert

You can make the LT1 '92-'94 Optispark setup more reliable than a '95-'96, even with the early distributor configuration. Buy a $12 '96 GM Vette distributor vacuum harness assy. Buy a $4 clear plastic fuel filter. Buy a $3 tube of premium black Permatex RTV, because it withstands the highest temps. Reserve a long day to fiddle around. Here's how it all goes together:

1a) Disassemble and clean the inner and outer cap & rotor assembly with a mild soap like Murphy's, Ivory or equivalent and thoroughly clean off all carbon, soap and dirt residue. Early style top caps must be drilled in a specific spot and at a specific angle to provide venting and a piece of vinyl hose will need glued in the hole. You will have to examine a later style outer cap to see where to drill the hole. It is at 6 o'clock pointing toward the driver's side tire. Use masking tape on drill bit to prevent drilling the small molded spark shield inside. Sorry, I can't describe better. I elected to buy a new early distributor and also a late distributor cap kit. I removed the early upper cap and replaced it with the late upper cap. This was expensive but ideal. You need an odd E5 female Torx socket to remove & install cap.

OR

1b) Buy a new later '95-'96 style cap and rotor assembly. The outer cap that the spark plug wires plug into was revised to provide a vacuum system connector. It WILL fit the earlier distributors perfectly. Problem is, the lower cap assy is different on the early and late distributors and can't be purchased separately. I heard the Pep Boys early cap kit provides the proper early lower cap with a later style upper cap that has a plug in the vacuum hole. That would be ideal.

2) Use a liberal bead of Permatex to seal the lower cap section to the aluminum base, top cap to the lower cap and thoroughly cover the stupid "shrinking" white foam seal around the wiring harness area of the distributor. You may prefer to use a hobby paintbrush to cover seams better.

3) The fuel filter hangs under the dashboard with the inlet end open to the air. The outlet end goes to a piece of vacuum line and feeds thru the firewall or grommet near the upper door hinge into the engine compartment. This hose must feed to one of the three vent holes in the distributor base assy closest to the driver's side by gluing in a piece of thinwall 1/8" vinyl emissions control hose in with the silicone sealer. Form the hose so it routes away from the crankshaft dampener toward the driver's front tire and looping upward with a fairly tight but not kinked radius of about 3". Plug the remaining two holes with the sealer.

This vinyl hose in the distributor base must be routed up the front of the motor between the serpentine belt tensioner and alternator bracket. You will likely need to see a '95 or '96 Vette to see how they squeezed it in there without pinching or wearing a hole in it. It is a real snaked route. You can split rubber vacuum hose and cover the vinyl hose with it to prevent collapsing when you restrain it using plastic tie wraps . It follows the edge of the aluminum accessory bracket all the way up to the intake. This 1/8" vinyl hose in the base gets routed across the top of the motor toward the battery. I drilled aluminum bracket to access door hinge area from battery. You can convert to rubber vacuum hose if you wish and route it through the grommet in the upper driver's door hinge into the dashboard area. You're done with hose #1.

3) Now hose #2. Take the vent hoses from the '96 GM Corvette OEM Vacuum Harness kit and use the one with the two in-line gizmos in it. One in-line device is a one way valve and the other is a flow restrictor. The accompanying bare hose in the GM kit is not used. Remove the plastic cover off the driver's side of the engine intake manifold. You will see a nice vacuum source going to the EGR valve. Install a tee and plumb the modified early cap or stock later distributor cap hole to the intake vacuum source using the '96 hose with the 2 in-line gizmos. Make sure it's installed with the gizmo's near the intake. This hose is routed from the intake down the accessory bracket following the same path. Hose length is critical.

Conclusion: Low humidity air is sucked from under the dash and fed into the distributor aluminum base assy, out of the cap thru the one way valve and restrictor into the intake. This should be bulletproof, far better than the '95-'96 setup that has similarly poor sealing and draws moist air from the air intake assy. You should be able to submerge your ignition now. GOOD LUCK.

'95-'96 cars can benefit from Permatex bead sealing of all distributor cap seals too. Also, moving the vacuum fresh air source from the gray "L" fitting in the Air Intake hose to the cars interior dash area with the fuel filter method as described above will prevent intake hose humidity or rain infiltration from condensing in the distributor cap. This could be a real concern on RAM air modified cars that draw air from a license plate snorkel/scoop or from the positive pressure radiator shroud area.

Optispark repair kit C400 from pep boys is a Borg Warner product that is listed for 92-96's. This kit probably will work fine on 95's or 96's but it needs a little help to fit the early units.

It costs $153 dollars so if you aren't sure you can do this I suggest not trying because you may ruin one of the pieces. The kit gives you a vented cap and rotor, which are ok as is. The inside cover is what is different. The ECM plug is on the new part , but the old unit has the plug already molded and attached to the base. It goes in a notch in the old cover.

This is a source of leaks so the change in design is for the better. It is tempting to use the old inside cover but it may have carbon tracks due to its close proximity to the rotor and may not work when you are done. Carefully cut the plug snout off of the new cover flush with the outside diameter, using a Dremel tool or a small hobby saw. Saw a notch in the new cover working a little at a time until you are satisfied with the fit. Leave a little room for some epoxy. I used Aeropoxy, but JB weld would work fine.

Next you will notice the flange in the center will not clear the photo receptor on the base. Remove a small section of the flange until it just clears. Now clean everything as good as possible and put the unit together. Put a very small amount of Vaseline on JUST the portion of the cap seal directly above the ECM plug so the epoxy won't stick to it. Leave the screws a little loose until the epoxy sets, then tighten them to compress the seal.

What you now have is a hybrid unit that should be better than the original and you can hook up a vacuum vent if you really want to. The new cap has a vacuum fitting but no provisions for flow through so I elected to leave it open as it is on the bottom so nothing can get in. Hooking a direct vacuum didn't seem like a good idea to me but that is up to you.


I am uncertain, but believe that Rick is indicating the internal round cap under the rotor as the lower and the exterior cap as the upper.

Wa'da'ya'tink?

Be well,
[/COLOR]
Jeremy G. Walsh
Rapid City, SD

Pm me if you need a brand new set of pre-85 Chevy 350 Headers.

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#21 Dirck

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Posted 16 February 2004 - 03:05 AM

Hello gang.

Thanks to Rick Frohnert and everyone on earth who takes the time to increase the brother's (and sister's) retention of blood, sweat, tears and time.

Apoligies for the obscure text. Yellow seemed too bright to my astigmatic optics. The gray text appeared docile yet clear on a black backround. I'll stay away from gray. Orange was the ticket. Thanks Warren.

Discovered RF's methodology on a google search of "LT1 Optispark" It's also how I discovered The Source. After positive results, I'll paste it on my 'How to' Wall of fame'.{8^)>

Yeah, my sentiments precisely. If at first you don't succeed,....
Obviously, preparation and application for positive seal must be impeckable.

Upon reading R.F.'s step 3, I am wondering if the '96 'vette vacuum harness tubing {"gizmos"} valves deter PCM code disruption. I'll post results after I procure and apply the parts. It would be easy enough to plug the venting orifice if fueling disruption arrises. {Oil and cap seal integrity test will ensue.} Anyone have factory manifold vacuum figures at the EGR or the MFI intake as a baseline? I'll take readings before and after to determine resultant fluctuation.

Blaze on,
Dirck

Edited by Dirck, 16 February 2004 - 04:36 AM.


#22 Formyla

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Posted 16 February 2004 - 03:18 AM

How about switching to an aftermarket flywheel or crank fired ignition? Doesnt mallory offer something with more performance and more dependable?




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#23 Dirck

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Posted 16 February 2004 - 04:54 AM

I'm in research mode and will place Mallory on my list. Thank'y!

I had hoped to apply a reliable interim cure to existing componentry until this motor meets Mr. Hoist and Major Massage.

Here's another option with impressive versatility.
http://www.delteq.com/products.htm

Dirck

#24 HunterLT1

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Posted 16 February 2004 - 09:21 PM

here is another option, which i think i will be taking to replace my optispark which is dying.

Dyna Spark

#25 charles

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Posted 16 February 2004 - 11:01 PM

The EGR doesn't work at idle and it won't work if free revving the engine, Not sure about the Vapor Canister. A stock, even mildly modded LT1 idles with at least 20 inches of vacuum--mine does anyway.
Charles (94 Formula T-Top, green/gray leather, 6spd, some stock parts remaining, some even work).

My disclaimer: Any information that is furnished by me, is sometimes the result of endless hours of frustrating research and it might come from recognized authorities on the subject that I don't know. Sometimes it is also my personal opinion. Remember, your results may vary...mine certainly do.

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#26 mytmous

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Posted 11 March 2004 - 02:17 PM

Charles, Doug and everyone else,

I'm close to finishing my Opti research, I've been gone for a few months and have a pile of vented and non-vented bad and good opti's I've been playing with the last few months.

Down to 2 one vented one non-vented.
will post some pictures soon, or maybe a webpage.

I've been looking at a way to "FIX" a bad opti, also an easy way to help a non-vented opti to work better.

I'm on to the install and test phase now, so I will let you know.

BTW I think the one-way valve on the vented opti is what keeps it from having
a vacuum leak issue.
MyTMous
94 Formula, LT1,
01 Cadillac Catera
http://www.buildaracecar.com

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#27 1993Formulav8

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Posted 11 March 2004 - 03:11 PM

In my signature is a link to the dynaspark, this unit addresses all of the failure issues with the optispark.
LT1, underive crank pulley, K&N cold air kit, 1le intake elbow (minus the silencer tube), Holley clip on air foil, Throttle body bypass, 98 wheels, and a Dynatech Engineering aftermarket optispark distributor

#28 mytmous

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Posted 11 March 2004 - 03:48 PM

I'm doing this for all the broke folks, not everyone has $600 to spend on a dynaspark.

I have 2 friends with them and they are very very nice, but I want something that is cheap to fix, and an easy way to fix a bad one without buying a new one.

that is all this is for.


Also here is another good writeup on converting non-vented to vented.

Opti Swap



And another one too with Pictures.

Edited by mytmous, 11 March 2004 - 04:02 PM.

MyTMous
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01 Cadillac Catera
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